Far and Away on The Faroe Islands
Updated: 3 days ago
Rising sharply out of the far North Atlantic, the tempest-tossed Faroe Islands are an utterly bewitching place. Visitors encounter scenes from a Tolkien-Nordic fantasy; steep basalt cliffs jutting sharply out of the sea, waterfalls pouring off what looks like the end of the world, wind-blown wooly sheep posing for photos, colorful puffins, cheery turf-roofed homes and so much green. But it is the Faroese people, who proudly call the islands home and generously share their culture and traditions, who reel you in.
Over five days of exploring the islands with our local partners, I often found myself musing on what it must be like to grow up in such a beautiful and isolated place, demanding ingenuity, self-sufficiency, and resilient optimism of its inhabitants. Just before our visit, the gritty Faroe Islands soccer club, made up of mechanics, fishermen, sheep ranchers and school teachers, came breathtakingly close to securing a spot in the 2026 FIFA World Cup, an event that sparked contagious enthusiasm and national pride. That same homegrown pride of place can be experienced throughout the year, with the Islands hosting an impressive lineup of film, music, culinary and art festivals .
The Faroe Islands have a reputation for harsh weather, an unavoidable fact that must be accounted for in trip design. But the Faroese have adapted to and even capitalized on their severe climate. Commercial airlines from around the world send their pilots to train for stormy conditions at Atlantic Airways Aviation Academy in Vágar. Ferry-travel between the 18 islands, often delayed due to weather, has recently been supplemented with a snaking network of subsea tunnels, shortening travel times between and around the hilly archipelago. This network includes the world’s only underwater roundabout, an engineering marvel worth circling a few times to take in the illuminated “jellyfish” projection on the central pillar designed by Faroese artist Tróndur Patursson.
Learning to be self-sufficient starts in the home. Instead of a dog or a rabbit, young children are given a “home lamb” as their first pet, which they raise with care until it’s time for the annual slaughter. This is a family affair that occurs in nearly every Faroese home in October to procure food for the next year. A memorable moment from my trip saw our group welcomed into a local home to witness this tradition and share a meal, though I will spare you the photos. But worry not if you don’t care for lamb as the islands have several excellent restaurants celebrating the local bounty of sea and land, a few of which have earned Michelin accolades. And while the wine is all imported, the brewery & spirit culture of the islands is alive and well. At Faer Islands Distillery, which claims to be the "most remote distillery in the world" you can sample Gin and Subsea Vodka. Both global gold-medal winners, these spirits are infused with seaweed (gin) and mineral-rich water (vodka), sourced from a million-year-old fresh water reservoir that was discovered beneath the ocean floor during the construction of the sub-sea tunnels. They are working on a single-malt whiskey which should be released in 2027.
Even though the Faroe Islands sit between Iceland or Norway, they are a distinctly different place. Northern Light Viewing isn’t as assured as elsewhere in the Nordic regions and the Faroes don’t currently have the iconic destination hotels of other Nordic destinations. On the flip side side, they don't (yet) draw the same high-season crowds, either. And their compact size can be deceiving, as the island's complex geography, logistics and weather require insider knowledge and flexibility, making local guidance key. But if you love folk music in a pub, hiking along windswept sea cliffs, an abundance of stark natural beauty and a genuinely warm welcome (“heimablídni,” which translates to “home hospitality,”), the Faroe Islands might be for you. Just pack a good rain jacket and pick up a warm, hand-knit sweater while there.
NEED TO KNOW:
The Faroe Islands have their own language, currency and distinctive culture, though they remain a self-governing autonomous territory within Denmark. Islanders are considered Danish citizens, though somewhat confusingly the islands are not part of the EU. If you pick up any gin or sweaters, you must complete the VAT refund before departing the islands.
The population is around 56,000. It’s claimed that sheep outnumber people 2:1. The colorful capital of Tórshavn is the largest city but has only 14,000 residents. Its charming harbor and Old Town (Reyni), full of black-tarred wooden houses with turf roofs, the oldest of which date back to the Middle Ages, are easily explored on foot.
Access is via the Vágar airport, which has direct flight connections with Copenhagen, Reykjavik, Norway (Oslo & Bergen), the UK (Scotland & London) and France. Some routes are seasonal. We think the wild, remoteness of the Faroe Islands pairs especially well with a city stopover in Copenhagen, Reykjavik or Oslo.
Getting around: Intrepid travelers can collect a rental car and navigate across the main islands over the course of a week or more. (5 days felt too rushed in my opinion; I wanted more time and the ever-changing weather demands room for flexibility.) Or, leave the navigation to the local pros and work with an expert guide who can help you adapt your trip to whatever the day brings. They are key to unlocking doors, invitations and connections that you can’t forge on your own.
When to Visit: May-September is best for daylight and warmer temperatures. Around the solstice in June you'll enjoy 20 hours of daylight. My visit was in early October. We had a mix of rain, wind and sunshine, which can be expected to some degree year round. Intrigued by the Faroe Islands? Reach out to Kirsten (kirsten@outlierjourneys.com) to discuss your trip.
Most photos courtesy of the Faroe Islands Tourism Board at visitfaroeislands.com
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