Argentina as a Local and a Visitor: Finding the Best of Both Worlds Through Food

Leslie in Bariloche, Argentina, which she called home for nine years.

As I was packing to return to Argentina this summer (their winter), I thought of all the things I wanted to do, see, eat and everything I’d missed. 

In the nearly two years since my family returned to the United States, I was surprised by what I missed most: the warm greetings with a kiss on the cheek, merienda between lunch and dinner, frequenting small neighborhood shops for groceries, the way people celebrate kids, and how everyone gathers in parks and plazas with mate in hand. Food was a thread running through nearly all of it. Every ritual I missed had a plate, a cup, or a shared table at its center. 

During the nine years we lived in northern Patagonia, we had regular visitors from the States, and hosting them let me see our home through a first-time visitor's eyes. It kept me in that sweet spot between local and visitor, appreciating the views people travel from around the world to see, while staying grounded in daily routine, usually over a shared meal. 

Food is a natural starting point for closing that gap between local and visitor. It's the fastest way to feel like you belong: sitting at the same café table, buying from the same corner kiosco, or standing in the same line at the neighborhood panadería. 

With Argentina, I've long approached it from both viewpoints. I wanted to see the famous sites: Iguazú Falls, Fitz Roy, the Perito Moreno glacier, Mendoza's wineries, the tango shows and architecture of Buenos Aires, and all the way to Ushuaia, the city at the end of the world. At the same time, I needed to get my son to school and make dentist appointments. More often than not, a meal bridged the two, since we all face the same question: "What's for dinner tonight?"

Food is the anchor. With that in mind, here are 10 food experiences that capture Argentina from the inside and are highly recommended for all travelers to this great and diverse country:

1. Merienda: Head to a café between 4 and 8 p.m. They're packed with locals lingering over alfajores (local cookie), facturas (pastries), and sandwiches de miga (thin, crustless sandwiches), with coffee or tea to tide them over until dinner, which doesn't start until after 9 p.m. Bring a book and let time slow down.

A beloved Kiosco and Merienda Hour

2. Ice Cream: Order a kilo of helado, at midnight if you want. Where else can you get ice cream delivered to your door that late? Try the dulce de leche and sambayón, a rich custard made with egg yolks and fortified wine, like Marsala or Port.

3. Ñoquis del 29: Eating gnocchi on the 29th is a local tradition said to bring good luck. Visit a pasta shop on the 29th of the month to take part, or make gnocchi from scratch at home if you're feeling ambitious. Many restaurants put it on the menu that day too.

4. The Mighty Corner Kiosco: Ask my 9-year-old, and he'll tell you the top highlight of Buenos Aires is the kiosk and newsstand on nearly every corner. He'd build an entire trip around it! Chat with the owner and ask what their favorite local treat is. On a visit last week, a new friend bought two of his favorite alfajores just to share. Years ago, I used to grab the daily newspaper from a kiosk and read it at a café to practice my Spanish.

5. Mate: Put a Stanley thermos on your packing list for Argentina. Trust me on this. Once you land, ask a local for their favorite yerba, buy it, and learn how to prepare mate. Find a slow afternoon, a park or a plaza, and drink it the way it's meant to be: shared. When the trip ends, the thermos makes a perfect gift.

6. Team batata or membrillo: From pastelitos (pastries filled with sweet potato or quince paste) to a postre vigilante (a simple dessert of cheese topped with a sweet paste), you'll eventually need to pick a side: team membrillo (quince) or team batata (sweet potatoes). Sample both and decide for yourself.

From L to R: The ubiquitos Stanley thermos and mate, batata & membrillo pastelitos and sifóns on the table during dinner

7. El Sifón: A sifón is the container that keeps water carbonated. Order one at a bodegón or pulpería, and La Croix won't ever stand a chance again. If you're staying longer, you can have these delivered right to your door by the local sodero. 

8. Locro: If your trip falls around a patriotic holiday, there's one dish to have: Locro, a hearty stew of beans, hominy, and meat. It's practically mandatory on May 1 (Labor Day), May 25 (May Revolution Day), and July 9 (Independence Day).

Zapallitos in the market

9. Zapallito: This small round squash rarely makes the travel guides, but it's one of the first things Argentines miss when they leave, and I was no different. One of the first things I did was head to the verdulería and buy a whole bag. They show up everywhere, from tartas (savory pies) to zapallitos rellenos (stuffed squash).

10. Sunday Asado: No week in Argentina is complete without one. Most homes have a dedicated spot for the parrilla (grill) or a chulengo (Argentine-style barrel grill), and the meal is cooked slowly over leña (firewood) because that's the whole point: hours spent together, catching up and sharing food.

A proper Sunday Asado

Leslie lived in Argentina for nine years and has traveled extensively throughout the country as well as much of Latin America. She's passionate about the region and loves to share her favorite foods, destinations and tips for traveling with a young family. Get in touch today to discuss your own trip to Argentina or beyond!